Piggtind - The north face

Dato: 24.4.16

Tur:Nordveggen på Piggtind

Gjesterapport fra Emma.


Started up on the approach in sun and blue skies. Warm enough to skin up in just long johns and hat less. But as soon as we got into the shade of the mighty Piggtind it was time to dress up to tackle the 900 m ascent of the north face.

Classic crappy Lyngen snow

Soloed the first about hundred meters of AI3, my first solo on ice. A little nerve tickling but quite exciting :)  As long as I didn’t look down it was all great! Thereafter followed some hundred meters of running belays on steep sugary snow that just gave way under our feet. Protection was basically non-existent as we made our way up ledges and galleries…


We were lucky with no wind, but temps were cold and the higher we got in the shade of the mountain the colder my toes were. But the views were stunning with the Durmålstind and other peaks to the north going in and out of the clouds.


Last few hundred meters to the top were mixed climbing covered in sugary snow that had to be cleaned away in the search for protection, and some awkward sections rating to M4.

Happily we stood on the top of Piggtind for the second time together! Descended on skis down the South Couloir, and enjoyed some Rhurbarb pie back at the car :)

Signar looking up the mighty north face

Warm and sunny approach

Working my way up the ice

Humbling and impressive

Sugar everywhere

Last mixed pitch to the summit

Happy on the top :)

Mountain magic

Absail into the south couloir for the descent.

Our route.